134 Upgrade & System Cleaning
Some of this may be redundant from part one, but its important
section describes how to replace & clean out components of your
This is only recommended for those converting to 134A. I'm going to
leave R12 to the experts.
This is a must for anyone converting their a/c to 134A.
After finding out the hard way...
R12 was the refrigerant in all cars up to around 1994.
- R12 is no longer made due to Ozone depleting CFC's.
- You MUST have R12 removed by a professional, I'm think they would be
very happy to have it since its expensive, that is if your old stuff is
R12 uses Ester based oils that is compatible with 134A
134A is the refrigerant used in all cars starting around 1994.|
- Its ozone safe, I guess you can release it into the atmosphere if you
-134A uses a PAG oil that is NOT compatible with the R12 oils
R12 & R134A are not compatible with each other.
The 134 kits come with ester oil, which is compatible with both R12
& 134, since there will be traces of r12 oil still in the system
it is fine for the ester based oils.
Its is recommended to change all O-ring to Green colored O-ring, these
are made for 134's smaller molecule.
I would not flush the system out if you are not replacing hoses...the
old oil stuck on the hoses will keep the smaller 134 from leaking
do the conversion job right
the liquid line, It goes from the evaporator (firewall) to the
condenser (before the radiator).
TIP: the liquid line contains the Orifice tube, think
of it as a small filter which is guaranteed to clog, this should be
the first thing you replace. about $45
- Replace the Accumulator, the old original one is full of old oil &
absorbs moisture, its most likely clogged up. about $100
- Flush out the compressor (see below)
- Pull a vacuum on the system...once everything is together go to a a/c
shop, quick oil place or anywhere that services a/c's. If you will add
the refrigerant from the store bought cans just
ask them to pull a vacuum, this removed water & makes room for refrigerant...
NOTE this is why most people notice that after a conversion that it doesn't
cool like it used to, because they didn't vacuum the system thus adding
refrigerant to existing air already inside...not allowing you to put in
all required refrigerant & you will have a refrigerant/air mix that
will allow moisture in it.
I on the other hand, didn't follow this step due to time constraints and
charged my system with those cans without a vacuum. Well it works, not
as cold as it should but works great when you need it.
accumulator removal and installation
was simple & strait foraward.
loosen & disconnect both a/c lines attached to the accumulator. Be
careful with the one by the firewall. Inside the dash is the evaporator,
do not twist or damage this, you will end up spending probably a weekend
removing the dash to replace this...not fun.
accumulator is held in place by a bracket that is bolted to the firewall
by 2 bolts. You can remove the nuts (the bolts a part of the firewall)
to remove the bracket, but you cant pull the accumulator out that way,
the coolant hoses are in the way.
- With a ratchet wrench loosen "the clamp" on the bracket enough
to pull the accumulator out. Funny how I used the hole in the "engine
lift" thing that's near the throttle body to do this.
There are 2 bolts holding the bracket to the firewall, I removed the bolts
only to find I could not remove it, it was too big to pass through everything
around it, looks like I didn't need to, just loosen the "clamp".
is simply the reverse.
sure the clamp is open enough to slide the new accumulator into. Then
the new hoses to the evaporator (on firewall) & compressor.
accumulator part is complete...
also easy to remove\
Remove the Serpentine Belt
- Loosen & Remove the a/c lines
-Remove the wire/plug
- Remove all bolts that are holding the compressor to the front bracket.
Now you will find 2 last bolts facing the valve cover, one you will not
be able to fully remove...instead of those remove the 2 bolts kind of
under the compressor so that when you lift it out the small bracket remains
with the 2 rear bolts.
Pull the compressor out.
I dumped the oil that was in the compressor into a used oil drum to recycle,
I think that's better than dumping it in the sink...hope so :)
To remove the old oil I just poured it out...after 3 attempts to charge
it with a 134 kit it seems obvious that there was too much oil...most
likely the original oil and some from every other failed attempt.
- Then I poured in some a/c flush that I bought at an autoparts store
(about $15) and turned the clutch slowly by hand, make sure you turn the
clutch too, not just the pulley, be careful the oil will shoot out if
did this a couple times then forced air with an air gun into the low end
side (shown in photo with Blue cap) and shot out anything let inside,
I rotated the clutch a few time to get all out.
is again opposite of removal.