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Power
Door Lock Repair
This is the section that started it all |
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This
section describes how to replace the Power Door Lock Actuator (door lock
motor). Although you can use this to install a new one it's intended to
install a used one. Buy a used actuator from a junk yard, around $15-25
each (compared to $70 each new) . |
The
same actuator can be found in 1979-93 Mustangs and should be in almost
all Fords from 79-93 (with some minor swapping, see text below). I bought
one from a '85 Bronco-II for $15, and had to use my old rod (other one
was about 3 inches longer).
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Key
not working ?
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If
your key can't unlock or lock the door because it can't turn, then it's
usually a sign of a frozen door lock motor.
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You
will need to remove the door panel, Click on the link to the right for detailed info --> |
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Once
the actuator is freed from the plastic bracket the tricky part is to
pull its rod out of the lock mechanism. |
New
Photos that might help ...
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Here's
that rivet that can cause you headaches ...Don't bother touching it!
It's right above the blue plug. |
Here's the inside view of a door, think its hard to get a camera in there?, try to get your hand in! | Can
you see the bracket that the motor is held in with? It's held on by...,
you guessed it... the @#&*% rivet! Why drill out the rivet? Just pry the motor out of the bracket. Then wiggle the hook shaped top rod out. |
If
you acquired an actuator from another Ford vehicle it will be the same,
the rod length and wire socket may be different.
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The
lower text goes with the above lifelike artwork.
If the rod length is different (Bronco's were longer) pry the small cover/retainer up and pull the rod out, it will spin up and out. DO NOT LOOSE THE VERY TINY BEARINGS!!! There are 3 of them. Insert
your old rod from the original actuator and put everything back in reverse.
When you have the retainer (cover) snapped in, make certain the rod spins
up and down, to test if the bearings were replaced correctly. |
If you happen to remove the rivet here is a tip to fix it... |
You will need a 1/4"-20 x 1/2" bolt, suitable lock washer, and a nut to fit the bolt. A square nut would work best, but a hex will do. Just be sure one side is fairly flat. Drill out or otherwise remove the original rivet; I used a Dremel MotoTool with the cutoff wheel to do this. Remove the new actuator from it's u-shaped mounting bracket. Super glue the nut to the inside of the bracket, centered over the hole, flat side against the metal. Put the actuator back into the bracket, and attach the wiring harness. Work the actuator assembly into place, with the actuator rod through the hole in the lock shaft assembly. While holding the actuator in place, line up the mounting hole with the hole in the door, and thread in the bolt with lock washer. Tighten the bolt. The metal part of the mounting bracket is slightly concave, and the edges of the nut will dig in, preventing it from turning. Submitted by Jack M. |
Part
Numbers
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Lock
Actuator 1990 part # |
F0ZB-66218A42-AA F0Z=1990's Part F=90's Decade 0=year(1990) Z=Mustang |
Plastic Piece above motor, that allows you to open door. | E9AB-54220A91-AA E=1980's 9=1989 A=Generic Ford part L=Left or Right door. |
Thanks to Ed S. for supplying the part numbers... |
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If
you were directed here from an outside site please visit the FIX-IT link
below or Home to get more tech
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