As Ford updated the Mustang Models it also updated its components, when I go to the parts store I sometimes find what I'm buying doesn't look like the part I'm replacing. This section is intended to list the new replacement parts and to aid in compatibility of different parts for different years. As this site is new, I know there must be some errors and years that are off. Please E-mail me with suggestions, corrections or more info for this site at SPARKPLUGS@LYCOS.COM . Thanks...


87-93 Front Brake Hoses

87-93 Front Brake Hoses

Before and including 1986 the flex brake hose was all rubber. In 1987 it was changed to part rubber and part bent pipe. Still later (Not sure when) Ford changed the design again. I found this out after I had everything apart.

The new hose has a different fitting shape to insert into a new bracket opening that holds it in place. The old hose and its opening was star shaped, while the new shape is round with a notch.

So now you can plan ahead (had to order new bracket from Dealer, didn't have it in stock) or I guess you can drill the bracket out. I would spend the $5 than to have the hose jump around in the busted bracket and eventually break.


There are plenty of aftermarket intakes, some from Ford: GT40 & Cobra intakes, & others from Edelbrock & Saleen. Basically all better than the restrictive stock intake. Lately there's more info that Explorer Intake manifolds from 94-98 5.0 V8's will fit (with minor work) & improve lower end torque Now It's performance is not as good as the next best intake the Cobra, but I believe the cost is near half. Go see this website BLK90LX's Mustang Page for info on this intake & how to install it.
More info to come....







You can also use the heads of a '96 up Explorer, it is said that the 1996 Explorers use the GT40 Heads (like in the 93 Cobra). Check out this site for more info...GT40 Heads..

Quick tip on the GT40. Earlier GT40's Uppers had a 65mm Throttle body opening. 1993?-Current models are 70mm.


Supercharging Your mustang can be done safely as long as you don't over do it ...

A stock (1986-94) 5.0 has 9:1 compression, it can safely handle a low output supercharger with about 5 to 8 pounds of boost, while running 92 or higher octane. Going higher in boost could result in detonation (pinging) and some nice holes in your pistons.

There is also another matter to keep in mind when planning to get a supercharger, some are designed to increase Lower end (lower RPM Range), while others increase Higher end torque.

Owners of Speed Density 5.0's (87-88) say it is possible to install the low boost (5-8 psi) superchargers to Speed Density cars with no idle problems.
Higher boosts require more fuel ! ! !
& Higher Octane.

Depending on what your doing you may need to get larger injectors & higher flow fuel pump. Running Lean will cause damage!

Mustang Supercharger Kits will come with all needed hardware, Some kits will relocate the alternator, most cost in the $2000 to 4000 range.

Before you supercharge your motor install a less restrictive exhaust+ headers & at least cat=back system.

Most of all... This is info for the beginner, that I have gathered. Learn all you can on your specific motor setup & ask your mechanic, the supercharger manufacturer, & helpful Mustang Owners at places such as or to make your decisions...

Speed Density VS. Mass Air
Speed Density:
Mass Air:
All 1986-1988 (& non 88 California) Mustang 5.0's were equipt. with Speed Density computer system.
All 1986-1991 Mustang 2.3 were Speed Density .
All 1989 & later 5.0's were MASS Air
All 1991 & later 2.3's are MASS Air.

-Air entering the system is not directly measured but "guessed" by RPM & various other sensors, then that data checked against a chart of values to calculate proper engine functions.

- Since the computer is doing everything "by the book" it will not adjust well, or at all to major modifications, especially larger cams. It can't adjust to changes because it must follow a predetermined set of values.

-SD cars are known to be faster than mass air cars due to the addition of more emission concerns, restrictive mass air meter, & funny enough by guessing the SD computer guesses in favor of speed. Actually it runs a bit leaner.

Note: Non H.O. 5.0's were all SD, they never came with Mass air.

MASS Air (1989 & up 5.0 HO) has a Mass Air Sensor (on air inlet tube right after air filter) that directly measures the amount of air flowing into the motor.

- Because this system knows exactly how much air it's getting, it will adapt to any motor modification, including large cam, supercharger, larger intake...

-The mass air meter's opening & throttle body is smaller (more restrictive - 55mm) than the SD's Throttle body (60mm).

Squeaks.... Grease It

Tie Rods
Every now amd then its good to give a few shots of grease. All you can really grease on a mustang are the Tie Rod Ends...
- Most Tie Rods have a grease fitting ready to go.
- Some didn't have fittings but just a plug. The plug can be unscrewed and a grease fitting (from any auto store) can be screwed in.

Dont Over Grease...Just a few shots

Ball Joints
Ever hear a loud squeak or something that sounds like a bed with rusty springs going down the raod? Or is it your car too?
If the noise is from the ball joints (can be confused as a shock problem) the noise will come from the front when turning or bumps & dips in the road, or even stopping.

- Ball Joints on a 79-93 Mustang are sealed. Once they go bad they have to be replaced.
Very noisy ones can be quieted, with a temporary quick-fix solution with grease and the use of a grease needle, as shown in the photo below...

It comes with that protective tube and is very sharp. Just fit on a grease gun and puncture the rubber (top part) of the ball joint and squeeze some grease in. Again just a few shots, excess will squirt out, clean it up.
This should end the noise but I would consider getting a new ball joint soon. Ball Joints are replaced buy replacing the entire A-Arm. I believe some shops can press a new joint into the old A-Arm but either way bring it to a shop to get done, and you will need an alignment anyway.

see Locations section for under car photo

Advancing Timing

The lowest cost performance increase you can do to your motor is to increase its timing. Drivers notice a noticeable increase in lower torque with as little as a 2 degree increase.

Now the bad news the factory setting for the 5.0 is 10, which allows you to run low octane gas. Bumping the timing up will require you to use at least 89 octane.
Mustang owners have safely bumped timing up to 14.
So keep in mind that increasing the timing can cause detonation that will blow holes in pistons & other problems, it is recommended to go up 2 degrees & listen for detonation. Also keep in mind that cooler weather will not produce as much detonation as hot weather will. You might get away with it in the winter, but will pay for it in the summer...I wouldn't go over a setting of 13 degrees.

Note: Advancing timing on your motor will increase its emissions &
may not pass emissions tests.

Firing Order

Note: This is the order for 87-93 5.0 HO Mustangs Other Years & Models may vary.
See Fix-It section for 2.3 Order also.

Alternator 130 3G Upgrade

MORE INFO... See how I Upgraded my Alt in the Fix-It Section.
When you finished reading this you can click here
to jump to the fix it section...then select the alt upgrade from the menu.

Most of the 86-93 stock alternators are too weak (only outputting 75 amps), and not putting enough voltage out when idling. Even the connector to the alternator is known to cause fires (very rare though). The solution is to install Ford's new 130A-3G Alternator (from the 1994-95 V8 Mustang GT & Cobras only,not V6). It's better designed, will last longer, and has plenty of power at idle with all the accessories on.
This will require you to buy a new Alt around $120, and make new connections, it should fit with no problems other then grinding a small portion of its bracket(most Mustangs). Follow the directions ,you need to replace the stock alt wire with a thicker gauge wire that can support higher amps. Go to my LINKS PAGE and visit The Corral (in its tech section) & The 130A Upgrade project, & Monte-Smith's Webpage links.

There is a company called that sells kits for 95 and 130 amp alts.

Be sure to change the smaller gauge stock power wire with a thicker gauge
as per the instructions on Monte-Smith's Webpage!

Outer Tie Rod Ends

Around 91-94? Ford changed the Outer Tie Rod Ends (longer ends) to help keep the Rods (steering linkage) parallel with the lower control arms, reducing bumpsteer. I believe the length difference is not the rod to the rack but the smaller pivoting stud that bolts on to the spindle. I believe that You have to ask specifically for these or you will get the shorter (original) ones that came with you 86-91 Stang.

You will need to adjust the toe (alignment-length from rack to spindle). I don't have any proof of the benefits but it seems to be recommended, on all the Mustang tech sites, to upgrade to the later rods.

Valve Cover Gaskets

I don't know exactly when, but Ford has upgraded the valve cover gaskets for the 5.0 to a metal design.

It's a solid (rigid) metal gasket with rubber on the inside.

The reason for this is the 5.0 has too much of a gap between valve cover bolts and the rubber, or cork gaskets would tend to move or break where the gaps were. The Metal gasket costs around $35 for both sides and is long lasting. You can remove the valve covers many times while not having to replace this gasket.

Power Window slow/sticks

You push the window switch up, (the window might go halfway up seem to shift) then it takes a year to close. First thing is to check the rod that the window is sliding up & down on. Usually the grease deteriorates. Unfortunately you have to take the interior door cover off. Clean off the old grease then put new grease (try marine lithium, it does not wash off with water) on the rod & diagonal track. Don't use penetrating oil instead of greasing, it will just clean the old grease off, dry up & leave no protection. Also check that the 3 bolts holding the window motor are tight.

Fuel Pump Connection (Submitted)

After removing the gas tank to replace the no longer functioning fuel pump, a Mustanger noticed that a fuel pump wire had became burned. I don't think (& hope not) that this is a common problem but is worth looking at if you have to remove the fuel tank...

My complaint is of the fuel pump connection on the top of the tank where the fuel lines connect.
I had changed the fuel pump because I thought it was bad , it tested positive for power going to it. It turned out that the connections came loose inside, & the wire got hot, visible burn on the red connector. There's 2 prongs on the top of the fuel pump male end of the connector/retainer assy. 1 came loose from heat. I cleaned all the grease out and used a epoxy to hold the prong up so it would make contact.
It's working for 1.5 years now. TIP ( use a heat gun to solidify the epoxy(marinetex is what I used).
...Tip Submitted by Gino


Thinking of Upgrading the Rear Drums in Your Mustang to Disks?

You can buy Rear disk Conversion kits, they will cost more, but you will get everything needed & everything will be new or rebuilt. Some companies are Aerospace, PST(back of most magazines), Stainless Steel Brake Corp, Wilwood, and FRPP. (look in Mustang Mags), & some offer larger calipers from Cadillac to fit (I can't find info on these).

Most conversions (like Ford Motorsports/or Racing whatever their calling it now) will change your axle to a 5 lug setup.
-You will also need a bigger Master Cylinder (should be included in kits).


If you want to keep your stock (or any) 4 lug rims you will have to find a 4 lug specific kit. PST has one for around $700.

OR you can assemble a kit yourself for around $250...

You will need:
- R
ear Axle parts from 87-88 Turbo Coupes.
NOTE: Turbo Coupe Axles are slightly longer than your Mustangs & you will have to use the T-Birds caliper mounting brackets if you use the T/C Axle.
- Or if you plan on keeping the Mustang Axle...
You will have to buy brackets from SSB to fit on the Mustang's axle...... (part numbers for the brackets from SSB Corp is #A2418 and #A2419.).

-Bigger Master Cylinder from SVO or T-Bird (see links for info).

The E-brake cables are '93 Cobra. Wagner part #:F1324400

Helpful Link ->
4 Lug Rear Disk Conversion

Helpful Link ->
From ,
go to its tech section.
Detailed, Motorsport Kit
5 Lug Rear Disk Conversion

More info or sites when I can find them , If you have done this conversion please share with us your experience ...Spark Plug

NEW... NOTE: Opinions on the T-bird & some rear disk kits seem that they don't offer a significant improvement over stock drums But kits that use larger calipers from Cadillac do.

Mustang Brakes

5.0: 1987-1993 Front: 11 inch Disks, Rear: 9 inch Drums
5.0: to 1986 (fox) 10 inch Front Disks
1993 Cobra: 11 inch Front & Rear Disks
2.3: Front: 10 inch Disks, Rear: 9 inch Drums

Intake Silencer


1987-1993 5.0's have this in the right fender (behind air filter) to keep engine noise down. ...Who needs that?
It's bolted with 3 bolts and is removed due to being extremely restrictive. Engine noise is slightly increased but allows for easier breathing.

The first & easiest mod, just pull it out... that's it.

2.3 Motors have a different silencer. It is before the air filter, almost in front/next to the radiatior. The large oval plastic thing that has the Ford logo on it is a resonator, It can also be pulled off. It can be replaced with PVC Piping or automotive intake ducting.

Heater Hoses

Here are the part numbers for the 4 small hoses that go to the water pump in a 5.0 87GT
(should be same up to 93 5.0) & the 2 for the Heater Core.

E6SZ*18472*A HOSE-HOT W $8.51
E6LY*18472*c HOSE-HOT w $6.31
E7SZ*18472*A HOSE ASY-H $13.70



Mustang High Output 5.0:
Mustang 5.0's have Forged Pistons
1993-up (including Cobra) 5.0 have hypereutectic Pistons

Non H.O. 5.0's: have Cast Pistons
2.3 Mustang (Non-Turbo) have Cast Pistons.

2.3 Turbo (SVO's & T-Birds) have Forged Pistons

- Forged pistons are very strong & are recommended for High Compression, Turbo & Supercharged motors

- Hypers
& Cast are less strong but good for stock applications & cost less. Hypers are newer technology, slightly lighter, & less oil bypass.

It is rumored that the 5.0's with forged pistions had a grey oil pan & Hyper pistion motors had black oil pans.

5.0 Heads

All 1987-1993 5.0 H.O. used E7TE (casting #) heads. These were taken from 87 Truck Heads.
1986 5.0 H.O. used same heads as every other no H.O. 5.0 car produced that year.
1985 used a specific head for that year only, pistons were flat topped.

T-5 Transmission
All T-5's can use an aftermarket shifter for the sole reason of positive stops. If you shift hard & fast with the stock shifter it may go beyond "in gear" & push the clutch fork too hard & bend it, causing shifting & clutch vibration problems. Most Aftermarket shifters have positive stops, meaning as hard as you push it into gear you can't go beyond (the adjusted) point.
- Note the only downside is that you will feel increased vibrations coming from the stick due to the new shifters not using the rubber shifter bushings.


T-5's built before 1989 were weak in 89 they were built with stronger hardware & called "World Class T-5's".

- When rebuilding a T-5 buy the kit to upgrade it to the stronger World Class T-5 . Ford dealer will also sell this.
- Replace stock aluminum bearing retainer with a steel one. Again the stock ones were prone to wear & caused vibrations, noises &... just replace it, you will be happier. Ford Dealer will carry this.

5.0 H.O.

1987-88: 225HP
1989-93: 205HP (also '88 CA)*
1993 Cobra:245HP (really 275HP)

* OK Ready? 1987 Mustang 5.0 had 225HP. From there on it's a mystery. Ford claimed all mustangs had 225HP, UNTIL 1994 when they came out & said 93 the HP was lowered to 205HP. What I believe,... When they went to MASS Air 1989-up (also rumored smaller cam) the 5.0 Lost HP & there were stricter Emissions standards which again lost HP. Also Ford had to "down-rate" or tell the real HP so the NEW 1994's with only 200HP looked good.

1987-90: 88HP at 4000RPM
1991-up : 105HP (Dual Plug) at 4600RPM

The 87-88 TBirds
with 2.3 Turbo's put out 175HP with 5 speeds & 145HP with Autos.
Mustang SVO:
84-85 175HP
85 1/2 - 86 200 HP




- 1987-93 5.0 H.O Injectors are 19#Lb

- Non-H.O. 5.0's use 16#Lb injectors (could also be 14#)
- 1983-86 TurboCoupe 2.3's use 30#lb

- 1987-88 SVO & T/C use 35#lb &/or 36#lb.

- 1987-93 Stock 2.3 use ??#Lb.

Injector Color Codes

Orange (Stock 5.0 HO): 19#
Lt. Blue: 24#
Red: 30#
Dk. Blue: 36#
Lt. Green: 42
FYI: 19# Injectors should be able to handle up to 350HP


A Note from Spark Plug...

The purpose of this section (& this website) is to gather information from various sources to help the Mustang Owner stay informed with changes & Useful information all in one place.

There is plenty of useful info on the web but most is hard to find, it turns into a guessing game when you get just a mess of links to choose from, I try to include as many helpful links to sites for specific topics as I can find, the more info & opinions the better.

One thing that bothered me was, as great as the Tech message sites were questions that were answered (in detail) would be erased after a while & that great info was lost... So I search through many questions on sites, magazines & swap meets to get a permanent database of info. And any of your tips would be helpful.

Keep in mind that Some info here & other sites are opinions & 3rd party info that has been compiled to keep you informed, but always keep in mind that this is to help inform you in your decision process, always ask a technician or mechanic before you start pulling out your toolbox...

I hope this site can help you maintain your Mustang
for years of enjoyment.
...Spark Plug