As Ford updated the Mustang Models it also updated its components, when I go to the parts store I sometimes find what I'm buying doesn't look like the part I'm replacing. This section is intended to list the new replacement parts and to aid in compatibility of different parts for different years. As this site is new, I know there must be some errors and years that are off. Please E-mail me with suggestions, corrections or more info for this site at SPARKPLUGS@MAILCITY.COM . Thanks...



87-93 Front Brake Hoses

Before and including 1986 the flex brake hose was all rubber. In 1987 it was changed to part rubber and part bent pipe. Still later (Not sure when) Ford changed the design again. I found this out after I had everything apart. The new hose has a different fitting shape to insert into a new bracket opening that holds it in place. The old hose and its opening was star shaped, while the new shape is round with a notch.

So now you can plan ahead (had to order new bracket from Dealer, didn't have it in stock) or I guess you can drill the bracket out. I would spend the $5 than to have the hose jump around in the busted bracket and eventually break.


Alternator 130 3G Upgrade New 7/15/99

Most of the 86-93 stock alternators are junk (75 amps), not putting enough voltage out when idling. Even the connector to the alternator is known to cause fires(very rare though). The solution is to install Ford's new 130A 3G Alternator (from the 1994-95 V8 Mustang GT & Cobras only,not V6). It's better designed, will last longer, and has plenty of power to idle and have all the accessories on. This will require you to buy a new Alt around $130, and make new connections, it should fit with no problems other then grinding a small portion of its bracket. Follow the directions ,you need to replace the stock alt wire with a thicker gauge wire that can support higher amps. Go to my LINKS PAGE and visit on both The Corral (in its tech section) & The 130A Upgrade project links. Be sure to change the smaller guage stock alternator wire with a thicker guage as per the instuctions !


Outer Tie Rod Ends

Around 91-94? Ford changed the Outer Tie Rod Ends (longer ends) to help keep the Rods (steering linkage) parallel with the lower control arms, reducing bumpsteer. I believe the length difference is not the rod to the rack but the smaller pivoting stud that bolts on to the spindle. You have to ask specifically for these or you will get the shorter (original) ones that came with you 86-91 stang. Unfortunately I didn't know this last year when I replaced all inner & outer tie rod ends (tried to reduce annoying bumpsteer, and still trying). You will need to adjust the toe (alignment-length from rack to spindle). I don't have any proof of the benefits but it seems to be recommended, on all the mustang tech sites, to upgrade to the later rods.


Valve Cover Gaskets

I don't know exactly when, but Ford has upgraded the valve cover gaskets for the 5.0 to a metal design. Its a solid (rigid) metal gasket with rubber on the inside. The reason for this is the 5.0 has too much of a gap between valve cover bolts and the rubber, or cork gaskets would tend to move or break where the gaps were. The Metal gasket costs around $35 for both sides and is long lasting. I would think you could remove the valve covers many times while not having to replace this gasket.


Power Window slow/sticks

You push the window switch up, (the window might go halfway up seem to shift) then it takes a year to close. First thing is to check the rod that the window is sliding up & down on. Usually the grease deteriorates. Unfortunately you have to take the interior door cover off. Clean off the old grease then put new grease on the rod & diagonal track. Don't use penetrating oil instead of greasing, it will just clean the old grease off, dry up & leave no protection. Also check that the 3 bolts holding the window motor are tight.


Fuel Pump Connection (Submitted)

After removing the gas tank to replace the no longer functioning fuel pump, a Mustanger noticed that a fuel pump wire had became burned. I don't think (& hope not) that this is a common problem but is worth looking at if you have to remove the fuel tank...

My complaint is of the fuel pump connection on the top of the tank where the fuel lines connect.
I had changed the fuel pump because I thought it was bad , it tested positive for power going to it. It turned
out that the connections came loose inside, & the wire got hot, visible burn on the red connector. There's 2
prongs on the top of the fuel pump male end of the connector/retainer assy. 1 came loose from heat.
I cleaned all the grease out and used a epoxy to hold the prong up so it would make contact.
It's working for 1.5 years now. TIP( use a heat gun to solidify the epoxy(marinetex is what I used).
...Tip Submitted by Gino


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